“The Club Liberté’s Sushi Bar has the best of sushi” writes a repeat visitor to Seychelles”
“Perfection, they say, is in the detail and perfection is difficult to attain. However, I would mark out the Club Liberté’s Sushi Bar as close to perfection as will be found on Mahe” a repeat visitor took the trouble to write.
“It is all detail. It is the pointillism of food; the effect achieved through the accretion of tiny individual gestures. It’s good, it’s very good. If my intention were solely to make sure the place was full, this is maybe overkill. I could probably fill it by knocking on the doors of my neighbours and telling them the good news, as the sushi bar is small. Inside the Club Liberté Casino, there is a dedicated section of the bar that seats seven, spaces which can be booked. Plus there are several tables for two or more.”
“A plate is laid before you. A mound of pickled ginger and wasabi is placed to one side. The fun may now begin. Of course, sitting at the bar is more than just theatre. Sushi is best consumed seconds after it’s prepared, with the barely cool or room temperature fish being gently heated by the warm, vinegared rice. Federico may admonish diners who snap phone pics of the prepared sushi; there’s no photography ban here, he just wants you enjoy the fish, while it is perfect.
While items can be ordered individually, there are also set menus or omakase, priced very reasonably. What’s in them is decided by the chef, depending on what’s good. We asked for octopus. He told me he had some, but we couldn’t have it. “I tasted it,” he said. “It’s not good enough.” Okay then. He said this without being condescending or grand. Indeed, there is nothing self-regarding or intimidating about the sushi chef. Watching the chef working is a joy, but he’s also good company.
A mid-ranged sashimi selection brought glistening pieces of snapper, bonito, tuna, salmon and the sweetest of sweet prawns. The nearest thing to adornment was the citrus juice, brushed lightly across pieces of snapper. The nigiri here is the whole package, which is to say the rice is exactly how you always wish it might be and so rarely is. It is the right side of just warm.
The vinegared edge is there without being overstated. The grains cling to each other without being needy. On to these pillows, formed by hand in front of you, go snapper, or strips of salmon, or a piece of octopus which has been so finely sliced half the way through by his knife as to look like bleached-out marquetry. There is a delicate brush with soy. A strip of toasted seaweed is used to form a collar to hold back a cluster of orange roe. Marinated octopus, laid with a blob of sauce, disintegrates in your mouth to release its oils.
I was once told that telling properly good sushi from the rest was a tricky business; the food was so very simple that difference could be measured in tiny points. I understood what they meant. Making it is a job for obsessives and so is eating it. So when the good sushi comes your way, you just know it. There are cheaper places to eat sushi on Mahe, and there may be hipper places too. But right now I honestly don’t believe there is any better place than Federico’s at the Club Liberté” the visitor went on to say.
Congratulations to Club Liberté. Word of mouth is what gives a property the edge.
The Sushi Bar is open Tuesday to Saturday, 18h00 to 02h00.”
Saint Ange Tourism Report
12th November 2017 : http://mailchi.mp/9ea46e4655e2/saint-ange-tourism-report-23rd-edition?e=7c399d3555.